2Tware Mount Disk Image 2012. 2Tware Mount Disk Image also supports the creation of physical disks, create non-512 bytes per sector of the disk, including 512,1024,2048,4k sector, and can specify any number of heads, number of tracks,2Tware Mount Disk Image can create all kinds of disk environment to help you research a large disk partition,fat file system,ntfs file system,disk format is. PEMPro Version 3. With PEMPro Version 3 you can now correct your mounts periodic error, polar alignment and backlash using your CCD Camera or Webcam to dramatically improve tracking and guiding. Here is a link to the Astro Imaging channel that has an extensive discussion of PEMPro with the author. New Features Summary for Version 3.

Losmandy G11 & Gemini

Here are some of the things I've been doing with my G11 and Gemini. I hope you find them of some use.

Changing the order of the washer assemblies

I took a look at the default (and recommended elsewhere) order that the washers and spacers are placed on the RA and Declination shafts and decided that they would be better switched around.

I think my assembly order is better because it eliminates a fairly large gap behind the thrust bearing that appears with the standard order. This can only help exclude dust and other contaminates entering the bearing and prolong its life and time between re-lubes.

The 'standard' assembly order, as supplied by Losmandy on my mount.

My re-arranged assembly order.

My order in practice, note the much smaller gap. Though it is hard to see at this resolution, believe me there is still a gap!

Friction Plate Replacement

If you use your G11 with digital setting circles (or the mark I eyeball), then the Nylon slip clutches fitted to the G11 make sense, you want the clutches to slip smoothly and easily. However if you use the Gemini then you want the clutches quite tight to prevent slippage and loss of alignment. Hmm these criteria seem to be at odds.

The conventional 'fix' is to apply more torque to the clutch knobs, either by replacing them with knobs that have extensions to give you extra grip, or by using something like a strap wrench on the standard knobs.

This seemed like madness to me, stressing the mount in what was a work around for the real problem - which is that the friction plate material is too slippery. So I am on the search for a new material..

I haven't found the ideal candidate yet, but I am now using a real 'high tech' material with some success. Cardboard!

Having replaced the existing Nylon plates with disks cut from a sheet of cardboard of approximately the same thickness, the mount can now be sufficiently 'locked up' with hand pressure alone on the standard clutch knobs to support my C9.25, and Megrez 80 on a side-by-side plate. Google calendar sync for mac. When slackened slightly it slips quite nicely.

I am concerned about the durability of the cardboard - it may start disintegrating, or 'polish' up and lose its properties - so having proved that the concept works, the search is on for a more durable material with similar friction characteristics. Any suggestions?

Polar Scope Binding Fix

If you have the G11 fitted with Gemini and have the Losmandy polar scope, then you may have noticed that if you adjust the polar scope so that it rotates nicely with the RA clutch loose, then when you tighten the clutch the polar scope starts binding.

The reason for this is that it 'bottoms out' and tightens against the RA shaft its self rather than seating against the RA tensioning knob. The cause of this is that the black spacer provided by Losmandy (see the diagrams above in the washer assembly order section) is slightly narrower than the cage assembly used by the DSC version that it replaces :(

The fix is add an additional thrust washer to bring the RA clutch back along the shaft a little. Some have measured the extra thickness required as 0.125', but it's not critical. Just add an extra washer or two in front of the RA clutch until you stop bottoming out.

The polar scope when fitted to my mount 'as supplied'. I have removed the retaining ring for clarity. Note that the shoulder on the polar scope does not insert fully into the hand knob.
The PTFE tape on the threads is there because on my mount, when you tighten the grub-screw on the polar scope retaining ring, it moves slightly and jams the free rotation of the scope. The tape reduces this effect somewhat.

Two extra Nylon washers added (from B&Q plumbing section) to space the hand knob further back.

With the additional washers the polar scope now seats correctly and does not 'wobble' at all. Mine was quite a tight fit at first, I just smoothed things off with some 800 grade wet'n'dry (dry) and it's now perfect.

Balancing a side-by-side setup

I used to run my scopes side-by-side on the G11 using a Losmandy DSBS plate (alas with the C14 this is no longer possible). I have often seen posts saying how difficult it is to balance such a setup, and if you get it correct for one orientation it will be wrong when you slew the scopes around. I have to say that I have never found it a problem achieving balance, and the second statement is patently false.

When balancing a GEM mount the aim is place the centre of gravity of the scope(s) and weights at the intersection of the RA and Declination axes. If you achieve this then the setup will be balanced in any orientation.

Generally here are only two axes that require balancing for a single scope (or a 'piggyback' setup), if you use a side-by-side arrangement then there are three axes that require balancing. There is one
'gotcha' though, the order that you balance these axies does matter, if you balance in the wrong order then even a single scope may not be correctly balanced at the end.

Below is the procedure I used. It only takes a few minutes.

Step 2 can be omitted for single scopes or piggyback setups, but step 3 (and 2 if applicable) must be completed before step 4 other wise your counter weighting will be wrong.

Step 1.
Place the counterweight shaft horizontal and roughly adjust the counterweights to balance your scopes. This balance is not critical at this stage so do not waste too much time getting it perfect. Tighten your R.A. axis clutch so it won't move.

Step 2. (only applies to side-by-side setups)
With the mount in the same position, loosen the Dec. clutch and point the scopes vertically upwards.
Now adjust the side by side plate on the mount so that the two scopes balance each other.

Step 3.
Now point the scope(s) horizontally, and slide the scope(s) backwards and forwards until they balance (care - tighten the clutch before each adjustment).
The centre of gravity is now aligned with the Dec. axis.
The scope(s) will now be balanced at every point of rotation of the Dec. axis - try it give them a spin (cables allowing!)
Tighten up the Dec. clutch again.

Step 4.
Now slacken the RA clutch and adjust your counter weights to perfectly balance the scope(s).
You have now move the centre of gravity along the Dec. axis until in intersects the R.A. axis - perfect balance.
Try it, loosen the clutches and move the mount around, you should find it now balances in every orientation.

Notes:
If you have any cameras, guiders, dewheaters etc attached to your scopes (I left them off in the pictures for clarity) then the cables should always be routed back the mount. Dangling cables will upset the balance.
Don't forget to add your finders/diagonals/eyepieces/dewheaters etc before balancing.
After I've balanced my usual setup, I mark the dovetails with a bit of masking tape on the sides so that next I assemble everything I can put it back in almost the right place.
Also remember that the G11 works best for imaging with a slight RA weight offset to the East. This keeps the worm driving against a load and you will find it much smoother. Add the weight offset after you have found the correct balance point using the procedure above.

I hope after reading the procedure you can see why the counterweights must be adjusted after the Dec. axis is balanced. If you adjust your counter we

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